2018年5月18日星期五

Vetements Were Exposed



Some time ago, Vetements, which had been smashed by the media, had been exposed by several media outlets. The brand was being constrained by arrogant pricing and boring designs and gradually abandoned by trend lovers. Although Creative Director Demna Gvasalia Tomtop Coupons publicly stated that the remarks were nonsense the next day, the topic has been gradually fermented and spread on social media.

All of these seem to indicate that an era of the trend circle has come to a close, and when I think about these clues, I find that everything is traceable...

Teen Witt's troubles

In my opinion, the Vetements phenomenon is a historical product that belongs to a specific era. It is young and rebellious. Although there is not much content to lead the times in the design, as long as their micro-processing, the uniform sweater can be popular all over the world, this trend once let the mainstream fashion ring exclaimed the loss of the value of fashion. ".

However, is Vetements really just a speculator? The answer is obviously not.

Their cleverness lies in their ability to start with stylized content and then transform it. When an ordinary object you are familiar with suddenly has other attributes, you are always willing to look at it more. After all, recreating is always easier to draw attention because it can generate analogies in all dimensions and broaden your knowledge.

Vetements are even better than this. They try to perceive the world from a cross-cultural perspective. Both in the costume itself and in the style of presentation, they all span the category of ugliness alone.

So, although I don't necessarily have to buy these premiums to excessive clothes, the emergence of Vetements undoubtedly puts a strong boost in the industry.

This is an era in which thousands of messages arrive every day. The more personal the perspective and the uniqueness of the message, the more attention you get. They make you feel that you are communicating with a cool and unusual friend rather than behave yourself. The media, this is Vetements most proud of the "identity."

However, these venerable Vetements eventually fell into the pit, and I remember that in an interview, brand CEO Guram Gvasalia reiterated the brand product strategy several times, only four words - hunger marketing.

Guram Gvasalia emphasized: "Our supply is always lower than market demand, so we can always sell out. This is our strategy. If you see discounted goods, it means that the supply exceeds the market demand. ."

However, the scarcity strategy of Vetements has gradually become weak in actual combat. At the end of last year, the brand's Pop-up campaign in Hong Kong was a good example.

Prelude to the activity continued, several notices were issued, and the mysterious atmosphere continued to be rendered.

It wasn’t until the opening day before the venue was announced – the runway of the old Kai Tak Airport in Kowloon.

Same style and amazing price

The reason is that blush conceals all the turbulence. Only when the wave retreats can you see whether Vetements is naked or naked. It does not have a profound foundation of fashion and brand accumulation. It is more like a spoiler who blew up mid-way. After tasting its sweetness, it tries to follow the path to the end and continues to use super high premiums to benefit from hunger marketing. .

These profound interpretations of Guy Debord's "Landscape Society" quoted Feuerbach's "symbols are better than the real thing, the copy is better than the original, and the phenomenon is better than the essence" and continue to dilute the brand value.

Vetements apparently Coupon Code Aliexpress overestimated themselves. As the appeal of the brand declines, hidden dangers start to appear one by one: because the brand itself no longer has the ability to create topics, leading to the slow-moving merchandise, hunger marketing will not work. Vetements' interlocking three axes - "identity", "hunger marketing", and "topicality" have all been broken down by the same brand, and the whole is like a chain reaction.

Perhaps because of the relationship between the same creative director, today's Balenciaga is more like the ultimate version of Vetements. It not only ranks first in the world's hottest brand of the Lyst Index, but also locks the future of Vetements to some extent.
In the eyes of many people in the industry, the golden period of Vetements is over. I believe this trend, Gosha, is also in the eyes.

Gosha's closure of personal brands seems to be more of a type of rapids in the industry, because his situation is much better than Vetements.

Gosha Rubchinskiy

Nowadays, some of the trend forms I would like to classify them as "formula trend". The endless stream of reference and design embezzlement are like the spy in the dish. What do these tagged designs mean? As we look at our hearts, we feel more and more uninterested, because these only remain in the visual presentation.

This is not only a problem of a certain brand but a problem faced by the industry. No style or aesthetic can escape the constraints of the market. Consumerism, social media, and market Rosewholesale Coupon Code recognition are firmly tied together. The various popular design labels seem to have become politically correct.

The popularity of social media has caused us to become more and more short-term about our surroundings. They reinforce our demand for new things, raise our thresholds, and make the times gradually desensitize, making the market's metabolism more and more ruthless. Rapidly - it can make the tide brand that has been pushed onto the altar instantaneously, but also allows the most topical designers to choose rapids, which not only means the end of an era, but also promotes people's attention In the new era, we cast a "Vetements".

It won't be long before we Free Promo Codes will see Burberry under the charge of the myth of explosion Riccardo Tisci; Céline after training by Dior Homme's empire Hedi Slimane; and of course Louis Vuitton men's clothing under the vigilance of Virgil Abloh. Continue the new round of separatism.

How does LVMH become the luxury empire of today?

The formation of luxury goods groups has been around for the past 30 or 40 years. It has developed from family businesses or handicraft workshops, but almost all have a long history of more than 100 years. It is generally believed that there are three major luxury goods groups in the world: LVMH Group, Richemont Group and Kaiyun Group. Each company has a "soul" brand, which basically contributes about half of the sales of the group. Richemont Rosewholesale Coupon Code Group is Cartier, and Kaiyun Group is Gucci, LVMH Group is naturally LV.

In the brief history of pushing luxury goods, we used Louis Vuitton as a case to introduce the well-known brand history of luxury goods. With the breakdown of different business areas, today's luxury brands are dazzling, but how is the relationship between them? This is still easy to confuse. We hope to see a clearer logic by seeing business stories.

First, look at the composition of the LVMH Group today.

LVMH full name Louis Vuitton Mo?t Hennessy, is the abbreviation of three European luxury old, LV is Louis Vuitton (M) represents the nearly 300-year history of the Royal Champagne brand Moet & Chandon H is the abbreviation for Hennessy, the world's most famous brandy.

LVMH's full name Louis Vuitton Mo?t Hennessy's main business includes the following six areas: wine and spirits, fashion and leather products, perfumes and cosmetics, watches and jewelry, and boutique retail , other cultural and arts category activities, a total of 70 brands. We are more familiar with the fashion and leather products, perfumes and cosmetics and boutique retail areas. The following is a list of brands.

Fashion and Leather Products

Perfume and cosmetics

Boutique retail

LV, Moody and Hennessy

Coyote and Hennessy were founded a hundred years earlier than LV.

In 1743, Claude Moet, who was a wine merchant, established the Champagne business and went to the family's third-generation Jane-Remy Moet operation, making the Cognac brand famous all over the world. One of the most important marketing is its friendship with Napoleon, Napoleon's influence makes this Champagne brand has the reputation of "Royal Champagne".

Irish Richard Hennessy founded his own winery in Cognac in France in 1765. His business acumen was very sensitive and he extended his brand to the United States, Australia, Southeast Asia, South America, even Japan and China, making Hennessy a top wine brand.

In 1896, Louis Vuitton's son, George Vuitton, designed a totem with the LV acronym and a four-petal pattern, which became the eternal symbol and symbol of LV, and also marked the official birth of the brand. In 1898, LV extended the brand to the American market, and in 1914, it opened the first LV large-scale specialty store on the Champs-Elysees Avenue in France, and became the vanguard of the world's largest leather goods stores.

Dior appeared

The emergence of Dior is actually an important reason for the influence of the French fashion culture on the world. It is inextricably linked with the establishment of LVMH.

In October 1946, 41-year-old Christian Dior founded his own brand boutique in Paris Montaigne with the support of textile giant Marcel Boussac.

Since then, Dior's design has broken the wave of the old era, creating new French fashion women's fashion, redefining the charm of women in that era. In August 1947, Dior introduced the historically famous "New Look" autumn and winter collection, which was adorned with complicated laces to arouse people's long-deserted desire in wartime. By 1949, New Look brought the company 12.75 million francs in revenue. Only the brand Dior occupies 75% of the French government’s total clothing exports, making him a national hero in France.
New Look

At the time, refreshing elegance and a new era of clothing made Christian Dior's name known worldwide and laid the foundation for the later development of the French fashion culture. This influence has remained until today, which is an important milestone in fashion history. After the fashion, Dior launched the perfume and lipstick products, it is a pioneering move in the field of luxury brand development. However, in 1968, its perfume business was sold to Hennessy. Afterwards, the Dior brand experienced a change of owner, and both parent companies declared bankruptcy.

Arnott is waiting in the wings

The career of Bernard Arnault, known as the "father of the world's luxury goods," and also the founder of the LVMH Group, has actually Coupon Code for Shein had nothing to do with luxury goods. After completing his studies, he entered the construction company founded by his father and he worked hard to ascend until 1978. Later, due to work reasons, he went to live in the United States. During the United States, he was proud to be able to feel his hometown style. Dior was placed in the department store counter.

During the period, the two major wine merchants of Haoyue and Hennessy formally merged in 1971 to form the Moët Hennessy Wine Group.

After the 1970s, the economies of Western countries were in trouble and entered the privatization reform. France is one of them. Perhaps due to Dior's affection in mind, when Arnold returned to his hometown of France in 1984, under the privatization wave, he bought Dior's then-owned company, the Willot Group, and later renamed it Financiere Agache to the holding company. Reorganized.

At that time, as the third-generation successor of LV, LV's then-president Rakha Miyah found that merely relying on the high-end route could not achieve a re-expansion of profit, he decided to merge with Moët Hennessy Wine Group, which was selling champagne at that time. . However, after the merger, the operations of the two companies were independent and did not achieve business integration and collaboration. LVMH caught up in the equity fight and it was the stock market crash that gave Arnott a good opportunity.

In October 1987, the sudden collapse of the French stock market caused LVMH shares to fall. Arnault bought a 43% share of the group at a low price with a purse company, becoming the company’s largest shareholder and gaining absolute control of the group. Arnott officially merged the world-famous Louis Vuitton with the liquor group Moët Hennessy to form the LVMH Luxury Goods Group. Subsequently, Arnott began to reform LVMH, and the structure of the alcoholic drinks and perfumery sector was reorganized.

Father of the world luxury goods and LVMH

Someone commented on Arnott: "As long as you see a beautiful brand, he wants to put it in the bag."

After Arnault took charge of LVMH, he began to lead LVMH as an industry leader in global luxury goods. In particular, he has a high enthusiasm for the acquisition of the brand, so he began to add to the LVMH building. At the time, for example, the purchase of luxury brands, including shirt makers Thomas Pink, Chaumet jewelry, Fendi leather goods, Pucci and Donna Karan fashion, Krug champagne, and TAG Heuer.

People summed up his method in three steps: the time of purchase was concentrated in the period of economic recession; after the acquisition, “receiving and releasing freely”, selling in a Yoins Coupon Code timely manner, and re-integrating through “sell and sell”, its sub-brands remained high. Yield; he had a unique vision when choosing a designer for a brand. For example, after LV became synonymous with “Lao Qi Street Pack”, he resolutely appointed the cutting-edge designer Mark Jacob as the company's creative director, and took LV’s ancient history. Noble into modern life.

The most recent acquisition was in April last year. The Arnault family (ie, the Arnault family), the controlling shareholder of LVMH Group, purchased the remaining public shares of listed company Christian Dior SA for a total purchase price of 12.1 billion euros. Prior to this, many people misunderstood that Chirsitian Dior is one of the LVMH group brands, but in fact they have always been two independent listed companies, holding Dior Fashion and Dior Perfume Beauty respectively, and the controlling parties are Arnault family. This also means that Dior Fashion and Dior Perfume Beauty have reintegrated after half a century of separation.

Arnault once talked about the secrets of driving a brand: "The establishment of a luxury brand is much more difficult than other businesses. It needs to create a consumer demand that does not exist at all. The fashion luxury brand must follow a formula: by tapping the brand history. And use appropriate designers to interpret it to define the brand identity; strictly control the quality of the brand and sales; ingeniously create momentum and attract attention."

Recently, we also saw the first quarter of 2018 financial reports issued by major luxury goods groups. In the first quarter, LVMH's sales rose by 10% year-on-year to 10.85 billion euros. Dior's fashion business, which was acquired in June last year at a cost of 6.5 billion euros, contributed significantly to sales growth. Looking at the scale of development, LVMH is still unable to shake the world's top luxury goods group.

Business is an industry that involves a wide range of industries. Philosophy is its foundation stone. Sociology is its living background. Architecture is its container. Art is its outer garment. Psychology is its driving force for consumption. Communication is its Expand weapons.

If the value of the product comes Tomtop Promo Code from creativity, then the fundamental driving force of business development is innovation. When we expect to accelerate growth, we must persist in absorbing and accumulating innovation.